From sunrise over the sea at Marotta to sunset in the hills behind the village of Mondolfo, an experience that brings together two distinct worlds – the seaside and the hills – in a perfect harmony between different horizons.
Mondolfo, one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages. A blend of architectural styles, from ancient Romanesque to contemporary, comes together in the streets and buildings that form a wonderful journey through architecture and art.
The history of the village dates back to the 6th century, with the construction of a Byzantine castle to guard the Via Flaminia. A thriving area, formerly known as Castel Marco, situated in a strategic and lush location.
Between the 13th and 14th centuries, the expansion of the fortified settlement gave rise to Mondolfo, named after its founder, Offo. A much-contested yet highly prized territory, it witnessed the transition from feudal influences to the rule of the Malatesta family.
From the myth of Mons-Ophis, the mountain of the serpent, to the rule of the Della Rovere family. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, noble families transformed the village into an architectural gem, embellishing historic palaces and residences.
Since the early 20th century, the old fishing village has evolved into a premier tourist destination. Today, Marotta is a destination of excellence, having been awarded the Blue Flag and the Green Flag – symbols of crystal-clear waters and a high standard of hospitality.
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Whilst Tuscany was the birthplace of the famous architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini, the Marche region was his adopted home. In these seaside regions, this man’s genius flourished, and Mondolfo, in particular, holds a place of honour, as it is one of the few places mentioned in a treatise written in his own hand.
In Mondolfo, in fact, Francesco di Giorgio created a modern fortification system comprising the fortress – which was later demolished – and the castle walls.
To commemorate and celebrate the man and the buildings he designed and constructed throughout Italy, the ‘Terre Martiniane’ project was launched, comprising a network of sites, local authorities, organisations, and associations united in the architect’s name, with Mondolfo leading the programme, which now boasts over twenty members, including local authorities and organisations.
Terre Martiniane aims to bear witness to the architect’s legacy through a virtual tour that recounts the story of this ‘Engineer of the Renaissance’.
And so, whilst exploring ‘Terre Martiniane’, one comes across a distinctive feature of Mondolfo: the double set of walls that protected the village, the older of which dates from the late Byzantine period, upon which the second, from the Roveresca era, is built, with its traditional almond-shaped design – an expression of Francesco di Giorgio Martini’s military theories, such as the scarped walls found at the castle’s belvedere, which overlooks the Adriatic.
The Sant’Anna Bastion, a military outpost with a distinctive polygonal shape, is a military structure from the sixteenth century. It is an imposing structure, which replaced the original tower to reinforce and link two sections of the defensive curtain wall; in the fort’s cellars are the exhibition rooms of Terre Martiniane.
Not to be missed is the ‘Martinian garden’, that Italian-style garden which stands out within the bastion, situated in the sunniest part of Mondolfo, where – partly in connection with
the Benedictine monastery that once stood there – even a lemon house was built, a sort of greenhouse in which plants such as lemon and orange trees could be preserved even during the coldest periods.
Bourgeois townhouses and aristocratic residences bear witness to the town’s former economic, commercial and agricultural prosperity and preserve ancestral histories, documented by the commemorative plaques found along the village streets.
From Piazza del Comune – an urban layout dating from the early 20th century, featuring the neo-Gothic town hall dominated by the Civic Tower – streets and stairways radiate out in all directions.
Leaving the town centre and heading towards the 18th-century Collegiate Church of St Justina, and passing through Porta S. Maria, you enter the monumental complex of Sant’Agostino, comprising a large church, a cloister
dedicated to prayer and the Civic Museum: it is a veritable cultural hub, the beating heart of learning and the knowledge of the men and women who have worked in Mondolfo.
Within the complex, 17th-century frescoes dedicated to St Augustine take centre stage, alongside the soaring bell tower with its superb peal of bells.
Mondolfo has a musical tradition linked to these sounds; indeed, it is known as ‘The village of beautiful bells’.
The monumental church of Sant’Agostino is dedicated to S. Maria del Soccorso: founded in the late 13th century and extended on several occasions, it can now be regarded as an art gallery, given the paintings it
houses, including works from the schools of Barocci and Titian, as well as works by Ridolfi, Ernst van Schayck, Ceccarini, Cialdieri, Presutti and Tiarini… renowned painters
of the 16th and 17th centuries from the Marche region, who trained in Rome or Venice, alongside works by skilled cabinetmakers and woodcarvers.
The Civic Museum houses important pre-Roman archaeological finds, such as the famous Picene stele, discovered in the fields around the village and the subject of study by many academics, as it is believed to bear witness to the spread of the Picene language in the northern Marche region.
The museum also houses remains of the burial goods of the Gallic warrior of Mondolfo, whose helmet, armour and sword were discovered in the 1930s; or the pontifical timepiece, the large clock set to Gallican hours, built for the town tower in 1857 and still in perfect working order today; the ‘Memoria della fisarmonica’ (History of the Accordion) section recounts how Mondolfo, with its factories, was among the first places in Italy to produce this instrument from the nineteenth century onwards, a tradition that was later abandoned with the advent of electronics; today, the town forms part of the regional itineraries dedicated to this instrument.
Finally, within the museum galleries
there is a section dedicated to rural and artisanal life: Mondolfo was, amongst other things, famous for the construction of farm carts by the ‘birocciai’.
The Valle dei Tufi: this is the evocative and picturesque name given to a part of the Mondolfo area, a route much loved by cyclists and hikers. It is an area stretching between Mondolfo, San Costanzo and Stacciola, characterised by these marine formations from the Lower Pliocene, composed of sand and sandstone cemented together.
Fascinating to look at and powdery to the touch, the walls formed by these sands provide a truly spectacular backdrop for anyone wishing to explore the area around the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grotte, the heart of the Valle dei Tufi.
As you walk through this area, you can admire trees such as downy oak, manna ash, elm and hop hornbeam, poplars and black locust, interspersed with hawthorn bushes, blackthorn, brambles and marvellous wild roses; and the most observant may even come across foxes, pheasants, quails, owls, scops owls, hoopoes, nightingales, robins and bee-eaters – migratory birds with multicoloured plumage that build their nests in the valley’s sandy soil.
The route, which winds its way through rows of vines and lush olive groves, also features two historic springs dating back to 1526: the ‘large spring’ at Mondolfo and the ‘small spring’ at Stacciola.
The area was originally rich in caves dug into the sand, used as hiding places and food stores; in fact, directly opposite the sanctuary of the ‘Madonna delle Grotte’, where today we find a lush pine forest, there once stood a hill with such cave-shelters: a wayside shrine was erected in this area, featuring a terracotta statuette of the Virgin and Child, to whom the sanctuary was subsequently dedicated in 1682.
It is from here that you can set off to explore the entire valley,
passing through Stacciola and continuing on to San Costanzo, then crossing through Mondolfo before returning to the starting point. A fascinating route that allows you to immerse yourself in
the tranquillity and serenity that only nature can offer. This route is particularly popular with less experienced cyclists too, who pass through the towns and hamlets via the Valle dei Tufi cycle route.
Set amidst the lush countryside of Mondolfo – which boasts FEE’s ‘Green Spica’ accreditation – on the left bank of the River Cesano, and built using reclaimed materials from the Roman era, stands the Abbey of San Gervasio di Bulgaria, one of the oldest churches in the Diocese of Senigallia, if not one of the most enigmatic, offering those who cross its threshold a treasure trove of mysteries and secrets.
Dating back to the 5th–6th centuries, the building stands in the middle of an archaeological site, in an area once occupied by the Bulgars, a barbarian people who formed an alliance with the Lombards.
The fact that the Abbey was built close to the Valcesano Provincial Road 424 comes as no surprise, as, in the past, churches and temples were deliberately built near the busiest roads, precisely so that the Word might spread more easily and widely.
Moreover, it is highly likely that the post station of Ad Pirum Filumeni, as recorded in the Tabula Peutingeriana, was situated in this area – a place of trade and more besides.
Externally, the Abbey has a basilica-style layout comprising three naves; inside, however, there is a single main nave,
following the alterations made to the interior of the church during the 18th century.
The altar faces east, towards the rising sun, because the Church venerates the Sun of Righteousness, that is, Christ the Lord.
Halfway down the nave, one can make out the threshold of an opening, perhaps the door of the earlier structure, which served as the entrance to the Abbey’s oldest building; its exact date of construction remains a mystery, though it is likely linked to a martyrium – that is, a place
where the relics of a saint were venerated.
But it is the ‘mushroom-shaped’ crypt that is the most striking feature of the entire Abbey, a structure supported by a column of cipollino marble, at the centre of which stands the largest Ravenna-style sarcophagus in the Marche region – a true artistic gem – which, according to tradition, contains the body of Saint Gervasius and is engraved with the Cross, the Constantinian labarum, peacocks and ivy.
Also worthy of note is the 12th-century baptismal font,
now preserved in Mondolfo Town Hall.
In the renowned seaside resort of Marotta, home to a Blue and Green Flag beach, the coastline alternates between sandy and pebbly stretches,
whilst the seabed is uniformly sandy. There is a wide cycle path running alongside the promenade and the low wall separating
it from the beach.
The town inspired the famous song “Il Mare d’Inverno” by the well-known singer-songwriter Enrico Ruggeri, who said: “Marotta has always
stirred deep emotions in me… it has something magical about it, always, even in winter”. Art also plays its part in enhancing this place, as evidenced by the “Lungomare dei mosaici” (Promenade of Mosaics), between the Lungomare Colombo and Via Faà di Bruno. Here, in fact, stretching for around two kilometres, we find a modern reinterpretation of the traditional Arab and Byzantine mosaic
, created since 2016 using waste and recycled materials through a community-based initiative, based on a design by graphic designer Giuliano
De Minicis, thanks to the work of around a hundred young people. A truly inclusive, team-based project that has seen excellent
collaboration between the local council, residents and volunteers.
The technique used to create this extraordinary mosaic is called ‘trencadís’; it involves joining fragments of glass, marble, ceramics and other discarded objects to add colour to the typical grey of the seafront walls, in line with the teachings of Antonio Gaudí: by breaking up the material, the tiles are reassembled into a mosaic that can be a random pattern or represent a specific design.
But the beauty of these works lies not only in the mosaics, but also in the organisational effort behind them: the group meets in winter to decide on the themes to be proposed, and then, when the weather warms up, they work directly on the walls.
The themes are of social importance, ranging from child malnutrition to violence against women, and encompassing the ideas of peace, social inclusion and friendship. Many artists are involved in the project, invited to take part by making their own personal contribution along the low walls.
Complicity, interplay, friendship: all this is encapsulated within the tiles that make up the marvellous mosaic which serves as Marotta’s symbol. And that’s not all: the town flies the Green Flag, an accolade awarded by Italian Paediatricians to child-friendly destinations, recognising the quality of the clear, shallow waters near the shore and the cleanliness of the beaches, as well as facilities offering every comfort to children and their families.
In Marotta, too, there are plenty of water sports for enthusiasts to enjoy, from windsurfing to stand-up paddleboarding and sailing. In short, a holiday truly dedicated to relaxation and fun, with something to suit everyone.
What characterises Marotta and makes it a magnet for food and wine lovers is undoubtedly the garagoi, molluscs very similar to sea snails, from which they differ in having a rougher and more intricate shell.
Garagoi, a true speciality of Marotta, are fished in the stretch of sea between Rimini and Ancona, and their preparation – a tradition passed down from generation to generation – requires a great deal of patience and hard work.
Connoisseurs and those simply curious to try them have the chance to sample them at the Garagoi Festival, which has been held every year towards the end of April since as far back as 1948.
This festival was conceived by the fishermen of Marotta, who had a dream: to showcase their town’s maritime heritage and unique tourist attractions. And so, for three days at the end of April, you can enjoy garagoi prepared in all sorts of ways, from traditional dishes to more innovative and contemporary creations.
There is also a custom associated with this festival, which dictates that for every seven ‘baci’ – that is, seven garagoli – you must also sip a nice glass of wine.
In addition to this traditional festival, Marotta also hosts the Festa della Tratta, which takes place every July and welcomes both locals and tourists to enjoy a dinner by the sea, sampling dishes from the local culinary tradition – and much more besides. During this festival, in fact, the historical re-enactment of trawl fishing also takes centre stage.
In spring, two dishes linked to two food and wine events in Mondolfo are not to be missed. The first, for the Spaghettata festival, is spaghetti with sauce, tuna and anchovies Mondolfo-style – known in the local dialect as ‘il sug sal tonn e alic’ – and the second is ‘tajulìn
sa la fava’, a distinctive long pasta historically made by housewives who, due to poverty, mixed wheat flour with broad-bean flour – giving the pasta a distinctive, almost chestnut-coloured hue – and which can also be sampled at the ‘Festa dei Magnafava’. Both dishes are now traditional specialities of the Marche region.
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